ALLEN GUN WORKS 5 PRONG FLASH HIDER (Part 1)

I’ve been asked a couple times about process to test kit and gear. Well, recently between our day jobs and everyday life we’ve had a few issues testing some of the kit we’ve purchased or graciously been given the chance to look at. Which has reduced our ability to dedicate as much time as we have in the past. That being said, it has only slowed us down a little because we need to ensure we dedicate the proper amount of "time" to a product. Someone took the time and dedication required to design, manufacture and test before they released a product. It’s only right that we offer the same time and dedication to put it through our tests and write about it based on fact and knowledge. The only way to truly test tactical gear is to train/work with it there is no other way to truly examine the ability of a product to do the job. There are no exceptions to this.

And, that brings me to one of the newest products we are looking at. I wanted to have all the range tests done photos taken, test film shot and the article written by last week but we have had some interruptions. The ALLEN GUN WORKS, (AGW) “5 PRONGED FLASH HIDER” which was designed and manufactured (in CANADA) using proven engineering by AGW. We received one about two weeks a go and installed it on a NORTH EAST ARMS GROUP (NEA), AR 15 with 12.5” barrel keeping with our “Canadian Made Theme.” What we noticed right away was the only product that even cam close was the VORTEX Flash Suppressor/Eliminator which we had previously run in conjunction with “BLACK IRON TACTICAL”. The AGW "5 PRONG" showed up in the standard packaging, which holds the Flash Hider and the compression/setting spacer. Right off the bat, we noticed the quality of craftsmanship and care in the design and manufacturing of the "5 PRONG". All the edges were clean and the threads were cut exactly with no mistakes or left over material. There were no signs of additional milling or tooling and the finish was flawless. It took us about 5 minutes to install the "5 PRONG" on the rifle.

Two days later we were at the range with vast amounts of surplus ammunition and time. Now, the only way to test gear or firearms parts is to run multiple grades of ammunition and use a part on a variety of platforms. So far we have run it on one rifle with low-grade ammo (vast amounts of surplus) known to produce large amounts of flash and result in lots of carbon in the rifle. This gave us mixed results unlike with some other brands, so we picked up some NOSLER and WINCHESTER Supreme, and some HORNADY to work with these variables (over the next few days). Additionally, we know similar flash hiders work constantly and effectively on 10.5” barrels so we will test it on a 16” barrel and see if it makes a difference as well.

One of the things we did notice with the AGW "5 PRONG", is the change in recoil, and a distinct ring each time the rifle was fired. Again, the only other time we’ve seen or rather heard these results was with the VORTEX. So far we need to do more functional testing but we are happy with the AGW "5 PRONG" so far.

If you haven't had the chance to take look at AGW yet, you should check out their web site and look at the products they manufacture. Keep in mind everything is designed, and manufactured in CANADA to a high standard.

AGW LINEAR MUZZLE BRAKE

ALLEN GUN WORKS (AGW) Linear Muzzle Brake installed and ready for the range. I'll be honest one of the easiest things you can do on an AR/AR Variant is replace the flash suppressor/hider for an after market one. Now installing a new muzzle brake or flash hider involves some very simple tools if you haven't done it before.

STARTING OFF -  I opened this little white box and find a small ziploc bag with one well made muzzle brake in packing oil/grease. Right away I love what I see, it's not over sized, or overly ornate with a tactical bevel or serrated bezel. The finish is exceptionally clean, not a bur or deformation or blemish to be found. The gas ports and projectile hole are smooth and perfectly beveled. The threads were clean with no burs or deformation. So I removed the original milspec style flash suppressor ensuring I didn't damage the washer/ring that sits between the muzzle brake and the barrel (to reuse it) and threaded the AGW Linear Muzzle Brake on. One thing I did notice was the tolerances for thread was very tight, not so much that I couldn't do it by hand but it did take a second to properly line it up and get it on (this is a good thing). Something I really like is the AGW Linear Muzzle Brake is the perfect size to fit inside (most) a free floating handguard/quad rail. I'll put money on it working with 90% of those on the market if not more.  It adds a nice clean finish to the look of the rifle and once we've had a chance to break it in we'll let you know how it stacks up.

QUICK CHANGE -  Now there are two way to do this that will not damage your fire arm. First of all mounting the rifle in the vice securely without damaging it. You have a few options here. If you have access to a magwell block, you can lock it into the vice place the whole rifle on it and do the work. More preferred is a good set of soft jaws (rubber padded aluminum jaws) that fit over your vice.  Soft jaws have a channel just the right size that if you remove your hand guards you can safely clamp the barrel tight enough without damaging anything. The positive thing about this is you can apply the little bit extra torque. Now with a muzzle wrench/AR tool or a regular wrench that fits remove the muzzle device (brake or hider). Once you have done this make sure you inspect the crown of the barrel, the threads, and the new device to ensure there is no damage or irregular wear. At this point if I have it I like to use anti-seaze on the barrel threads and muzzle devise's threads. I do this because if I need to replace the break at any time or simply service the parts I don't have to worry about the parts fussing together from carbon and age.  Now I'll use the muzzle wrench/tool and a torque wrench to place the muzzle break on. Now if you don't get instructions with your parts go back to the manufacturer for recommended torque spec's be cause the last thing you want to do is fire $100.00 down range in pieces or having the firearm imbedded in your face.  Now as a general rule a minimum of 85 lbs of torque usually dose the job (ie German torque spec = Good-n-tight). Lots of forums will recommend just putting it on as tight as you can, the only down side is you can stretch the threads. Last thing I recommend you do (if you have one) is to slide a barrel straightness gauge through to insure everything lines up properly (again parts down range or in you face are bad).

Now if you don't have soft jaws of a magwell block an old metal magazine that you don't intend to use ever again can be clamped in the vice and used.  It's not perfect but it works.  If you don't have an AR tool or a muzzle brake/flash hider tool a good adjustable or fitted wrench will work.  Just remember your working with metal/aluminum and the weakest parts will fail first if you monster parts on.  And if you want to buy the specialty tools, guess what?  AGW makes those as well.

"I highly recommend that if you are unsure or, don't know what you are doing that your take your firearm to a shop or a smith and have them do it as picking parts out of your face, your friends or watching money get blown down range sucks."

BABY IT'S COLD OUTSIDE

LAYER AND HYDRATE THIS - "IT'S COLD SUCK IT UP" a great little video from TRAVIS HALEY, HALEY STRATEGIC.  He talks about layering your clothing for the cold and ensuring you can still operate your gear.  Layer seams like a pretty easy thing to do specially with all the options out there, but you need to take into consideration the highs and lows predicted and know that this will change without mother nature giving you a heads up.  Your first layer should always be a wicking lay to unsure the sweat that builds up from being active is drawn away from your body.  Then you need a breathable mid layer and depending on the environment you may want two variable types, and last you need a shell, preferably something that blocks out the weather and moister while allowing the built up sweat to evaporate away helping to keep you dry.

BASE LAYER OR WICKING LAYER - are easy to find you just need a good one.  I'm personally big on MERINO WOOL, but you can find synthetics out there from companies like HELLY HANSEN, UNDER ARMOUR or THE NORTH FACE.  This is the most important layer as it is the one in contact with your skin and it collect and transfers the sweat away from you.

MID LAYERS - I use the pleural for this one because depending on your environment you may want more then one.  A cotton t-shirt is a good place to start as it will hold the sweat ones it been removed form the surface of your skin.  On top of this you'll want a wool or fleece of some kind, this can also be you final layer depending on the temperature and environmental conditions.  This layer will ensure that the heat being given off by your body is trapped in a final pocket and prevent the cold air from reaching the built up sweat or skin.

SHELL OR EXTERIOR - A good shell is the last thing you need and it will prevent things like winds and water from building up on the softer thicker layer and making you miserable.  Now depending on the time of year and environment you mite want something like a thin nylon or thicker lined material like GORTEX.

These layers work properly over extended amounts of time if you understand how they actually work and ensure you gear down or up according to your current activity in a certain environmental condition.  For example I may reduce my mid layer if it's warmer but leave on my shell if it's raining.  If I'm conducting heavy physical activity I'll remove my shell and or a mid layer so the sweat can evaporate faster and I stay warm.

One of the other considerations is you will want to feel a little cold, this will ensure you don't over heat to fast and sweat like your in the tropics.  Sweat in the winter or extreme cold is the enemy.  It will cool you down and effects areas like your feet, groin, bits and head first as these are the areas it will build first.  On top of all of this you loose more heat our of your head than any where else so ensure you have a good TOQUE (watch cap) or hat that will work or layer with everything else.  Other considerations are the level and quality of foot wear you're using, and can be done in layers.  I know personally my feet sweat extremely easily and freeze fast so a layered sock system as well a properly designed foot wear make the difference.  Something like a set of NEO'S over boots are a great add on as they offer the traction, versatility, and weather proofing of a MUKLUK without having to remove your trail boots or shoes and they take up very little room.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ll08xA_rWr0

http://www.mec.ca/AST/ContentPrimary/Learn/Clothing/DressingForTheOutdoors.jsp

http://www.gooutdoors.co.uk/expert-advice/layering-system-guide

http://phc.amedd.army.mil/topics/discond/cip/Pages/ColdCasualtiesInjuries.aspx

HYDRATION - Now with all of the layers and activity you're going to sweat it's inevitable.  And like I said sweat is the enemy, not only because the cold can eventually kill or hurt you but because of dehydration will aid the cold in killing you.  There are a few secrets to hydration in winter or cold environments.  

One it takes a couple days to properly hydrate the human body.  You can't just start that day and expect to be ok.  

Warm fluids will absorb into your body faster then cold ones, but caffeine will dehydrate you so limiting things like coffee, tea and hot chocolate while you're outside for extended amounts of time is a good idea.

Think about bringing water or mixing a sport drink 50/50 with water instead.  

Sure snow melts but if you're going to melt snow or ice you need to boil it for at least ten minuets just to make sure the things that will make you sick and cause dehydration in your shorts is killed off.  

Now you can carry warm water and drinks in your pack but if you have a vehicle accessible you mite want a couple jeary cans or ice blocks to ensure you have a clean water source.

Now, any idiot can be uncomfortable or die but with the right mentality and some simple training you can avoid being that guy.  Read, train, and make sure you have the right gear and mind set.

http://oakwoodsportsmedicine.com/2012/11/08/nutrition-and-hydration-considerations-in-cold-weather/

http://nuun.com/blog/2011/11/16/winter-hydration/

http://www.ceraproductsinc.com/military/newsletter_vol8_3.pdf

http://www.army.forces.gc.ca/cflawc/files/aoa-extreme-cold-survival.pdf