BABY IT'S COLD OUTSIDE

LAYER AND HYDRATE THIS - "IT'S COLD SUCK IT UP" a great little video from TRAVIS HALEY, HALEY STRATEGIC.  He talks about layering your clothing for the cold and ensuring you can still operate your gear.  Layer seams like a pretty easy thing to do specially with all the options out there, but you need to take into consideration the highs and lows predicted and know that this will change without mother nature giving you a heads up.  Your first layer should always be a wicking lay to unsure the sweat that builds up from being active is drawn away from your body.  Then you need a breathable mid layer and depending on the environment you may want two variable types, and last you need a shell, preferably something that blocks out the weather and moister while allowing the built up sweat to evaporate away helping to keep you dry.

BASE LAYER OR WICKING LAYER - are easy to find you just need a good one.  I'm personally big on MERINO WOOL, but you can find synthetics out there from companies like HELLY HANSEN, UNDER ARMOUR or THE NORTH FACE.  This is the most important layer as it is the one in contact with your skin and it collect and transfers the sweat away from you.

MID LAYERS - I use the pleural for this one because depending on your environment you may want more then one.  A cotton t-shirt is a good place to start as it will hold the sweat ones it been removed form the surface of your skin.  On top of this you'll want a wool or fleece of some kind, this can also be you final layer depending on the temperature and environmental conditions.  This layer will ensure that the heat being given off by your body is trapped in a final pocket and prevent the cold air from reaching the built up sweat or skin.

SHELL OR EXTERIOR - A good shell is the last thing you need and it will prevent things like winds and water from building up on the softer thicker layer and making you miserable.  Now depending on the time of year and environment you mite want something like a thin nylon or thicker lined material like GORTEX.

These layers work properly over extended amounts of time if you understand how they actually work and ensure you gear down or up according to your current activity in a certain environmental condition.  For example I may reduce my mid layer if it's warmer but leave on my shell if it's raining.  If I'm conducting heavy physical activity I'll remove my shell and or a mid layer so the sweat can evaporate faster and I stay warm.

One of the other considerations is you will want to feel a little cold, this will ensure you don't over heat to fast and sweat like your in the tropics.  Sweat in the winter or extreme cold is the enemy.  It will cool you down and effects areas like your feet, groin, bits and head first as these are the areas it will build first.  On top of all of this you loose more heat our of your head than any where else so ensure you have a good TOQUE (watch cap) or hat that will work or layer with everything else.  Other considerations are the level and quality of foot wear you're using, and can be done in layers.  I know personally my feet sweat extremely easily and freeze fast so a layered sock system as well a properly designed foot wear make the difference.  Something like a set of NEO'S over boots are a great add on as they offer the traction, versatility, and weather proofing of a MUKLUK without having to remove your trail boots or shoes and they take up very little room.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ll08xA_rWr0

http://www.mec.ca/AST/ContentPrimary/Learn/Clothing/DressingForTheOutdoors.jsp

http://www.gooutdoors.co.uk/expert-advice/layering-system-guide

http://phc.amedd.army.mil/topics/discond/cip/Pages/ColdCasualtiesInjuries.aspx

HYDRATION - Now with all of the layers and activity you're going to sweat it's inevitable.  And like I said sweat is the enemy, not only because the cold can eventually kill or hurt you but because of dehydration will aid the cold in killing you.  There are a few secrets to hydration in winter or cold environments.  

One it takes a couple days to properly hydrate the human body.  You can't just start that day and expect to be ok.  

Warm fluids will absorb into your body faster then cold ones, but caffeine will dehydrate you so limiting things like coffee, tea and hot chocolate while you're outside for extended amounts of time is a good idea.

Think about bringing water or mixing a sport drink 50/50 with water instead.  

Sure snow melts but if you're going to melt snow or ice you need to boil it for at least ten minuets just to make sure the things that will make you sick and cause dehydration in your shorts is killed off.  

Now you can carry warm water and drinks in your pack but if you have a vehicle accessible you mite want a couple jeary cans or ice blocks to ensure you have a clean water source.

Now, any idiot can be uncomfortable or die but with the right mentality and some simple training you can avoid being that guy.  Read, train, and make sure you have the right gear and mind set.

http://oakwoodsportsmedicine.com/2012/11/08/nutrition-and-hydration-considerations-in-cold-weather/

http://nuun.com/blog/2011/11/16/winter-hydration/

http://www.ceraproductsinc.com/military/newsletter_vol8_3.pdf

http://www.army.forces.gc.ca/cflawc/files/aoa-extreme-cold-survival.pdf

TAD STEALTH HOODIE

TRIPLE AUGHT DESIGNS STEALTH HOODIE – During early 2012 I was turned on to TRIPLE AUGHT DESIGNS (TAD) by a review on the ITS Site written by BRYAN BLACK about the RANGER HOODIE.  So I bought the RANGER HOODIE that summer and fell in love with it.  That led to me looking at the rest of their product.  Now I’d looked at TAD before along with ARC’TERIX LEAF and a few others but after trying out the RANGER I decided to stick with TAD’s known quality.  I skipped going to a retailer/dealer and ordered right from TAD’s online store and in a week and half I had a box of genuine TAD goodness in my hands.  First thing I noticed when I pulled it out of the box was quality of the material.  TAD used Schoeller 3-layer 240 g/m2, fleece lined treated with Nanosphere and a C-Change membrane also known as the bionic climate membrane (tech specs http://www.schoeller-textiles.com/uploads/media/cchange_e.pdf).  

I looked ofer all the stitching and the zipper, I methodically looked at the seams and found meticulous care was taken in the manufacturing.  So I threw it on and went for a hike in the EAST COAST woods during late November.  The nice thing about the CANADIAN EAST COAST for those who don’t know is winter, real winter starts around Christmas normally, and so you get this nice long period of torrential rain with mixed wet snowfall.  If you want to test how water resistant and weather proof your gear is this is a good place to do it.  Half way through my hike the weather didn’t disappoint and I was trekking back to the truck through the mud and rain.  My feet were soaked, my legs were soaked but my upper body was dry, you could see the rain beading off the jacket and right onto my pants….  Now since then I’ve taken it to the range to run drills, I’ve layered it with the RANGER HOODIE and used in temperatures below -20 C (-4 F) and trudged through a three-foot snowfall to dig out my truck.  What has really helped the STEALTH HOODIE stand up in all of this has been the premium materials,  “reverse zippers” and the tapped stitching in selected locations.  On top of the durability is the comfort and fit of the STEALTH HOODIE.  TAD put it together using a standard fit ensuring that the widest variety of body types would be properly covered.  I also found it fit over low profile soft armour carrier without complication, meaning it would work well for LEO’s or operators in a low visibility situation and still offer room to move.  Now in addition, there are two single underarm “PIT ZIPS” to allow for venting when you start to warm up which are easily accessed.  The hood is what they call the “AERO HOOD” design, which allows you to roll it up and pack it under the hood flap.  The adjustable chin cord is fed through the jacket and into the chest pockets which allows you keep your hands tucked in, in poor weather conditions and still be able to draw the hood tight which was a god send in seasonal rains.  If you need pocket space, there’s no lack of it in the STEALTH HOODIE as with most TAD jackets and hoodies.  It has two chest pockets with media ports, d-rings, and little stash pockets.  There are two shoulder pockets which also have media ports and d-rings, as well as a forearm pocket on the left arm and a hunter’s/poachers pocket on the back that can be accessed from the left or right side with ease.  The nice thing about the media ports is sure you can run your MP3 players and cell phones, but this also means you can run things like ear tubes and PTT gear in the jacket and have it readily accessible while your hands are hidden again hitting on the low visibility LOE’s or operators.  Now this isn’t something new to TAD as they have been putting media ports into most of their gear for a while.  

On the range I’ve actually used the poachers pocket to hold extra mags, while hiking I threw a backup map and compass in there just in case my GPS gave out on me.  All this room also means instead of covering up your tactical gear with a jacket you’ve incorporated it as an external layer and made sure you have access to things like lights, knives, comms gear, navigation and back ammo while still running your normal setup underneath.  One of the other things I like about this jacket is that I can hose it off with water and spray it down with sealant and take off with it when it’s dry or chuck it in the washer and hang it to dry.  I spent enough time rolling in the dirt at the ranges or playing in the tree line and the STEALTH has kept me warm and dry longer after other jackets have given in.  All that goodness wrapped into one product I know amazing isn’t it?  I did have a couple issues with the jacket over the past three months.  The first is the front zipper, a couple of time now I’ve hade the bottom zipper ride up when the jacket was bunched up and split the wide open.  The nice thing is the heavy-duty nature of the zipper ensured that I could just muscle it and start over again relatively fast.  The second is more of a want then a con, I would like to see TAD throw thumb holes in the cuffs like they did on the RANGER HOODIE and a d-ring on both sides on the inside of the jacket near the shoulders. I did cut the draw strings in the bottom hem as the shock cord and slide lock prevented good access to things like holsters and mag holders and would snag on things when I left the jacket open.  Now if you’re a LEO, operator or just someone who likes really good athletic clothing that will hold up then this is the Jacket for you.  Use it as a stand-alone or as part of a layered system you will not be disappointed.  One thing you will notice on the STEALTH HOODIE as well is the area on the forearm exterior/lower area has a larger area taped right over the seam.  This ensures durability but it also means one of the areas your prone to making contact with environmental surface has that extra pit of weatherproofing.  This is really nice at times when you’re laying in the prone position as most people not only use their elbows but forearms to push off or control things they need to hold.

CONSTRUCTION 9/10 –  Well it’s hard to beat the materials used in the production of the TAD STEALTH HOODIE.  The use of Schoeller 3-layer 240 g/m2, fleece lined treated with Nanosphere and a C-Change membrane is a smart choice and only ensures that the quality of the stitching and cut of the material hill hold up.

DESIGN 9/10 –  The fit and practical location of pockets draw strings and shock cords ensures you are effectively warm and dry.  You are able to access and operate any of the pockets easily in 99.9% of the situations as the locations are ergonomic and allow for the consideration of electronic devises and equipment, as well as every day carry objects.  Nothing about the STEALTH HOODIE is bulky or cumbersome but allows you to carry or conceal what you need to get through the task at hand.  Used in a stand alone or layered garment system this is a really nice shell.

DURABILITY 9/10 –  Well, between the materials and quality of assembly the TAD STEALTH HOODIE is going to hold up in just about any environment you may encounter while giving you the ability to just wipe off the dirt and grim that come along.  The double stitching and taped areas as well as the as well as the deliberate thought put into the jacket ensure it’s going to last you a long time.

OVERALL IMPRESSION 10/10 –  I buy things so I’ll have them for at least the next five to ten years barring I want quality over quantity.  I also want to know I can grab and go without having to break out of my normal maintenance cycles.  TAD has done that for me with the STEALTH HOODIE.  If I can only have one all around shell jacket this is it.  I love the feel and fit which is important because hate being uncomfortable no matter what I’m doing and for bigger guys this goes double as it’s hard to find stuff.  Now I do have one negative and that’s the zipper breaking loose at the bottom once in while but like I said, strong arm it open and re-zip it and you’re good to go.  I would and do recommend this jacket to everyone who asks.

SHOTSHOW!!!!!!

Just incase you're new to the shooting sport and tactical industries or you've been hiding in a third world country behind a hesco wall, SHOT SHOW which is held in LOS VEGAS, is one of the biggest industry show and tells there is.  You will find leading educators like TRAVIS HALEY and CHRIS COSTA, Top Manufacturers like MASSIF, SIG and MYSTERY RANCH or Industry Media groups like SOLDIER SYSTEMS.  Basically from 15 to 18 Jan 2013 this year they all stuff them selves under one roof and bring out their best and brightest as well as all the new shiny things while retailers and distributers make deals for this years biggest products.  We have been monitoring all the reviews as they come out and looking at the new products from some of the best names in the game as things unfold.  It looks like 2013 is going to see new developments, GLOCK is already unleashed the 30S compact, BFG with the support of CHRIS COSTA and the COSTA LUDIS brand has debuted their HIVE SATCHEL.  At night the restaurants and bars are filled with get-togethers and hosted parties allowing the manufacturers, distributers and retailers to be wined and dined while promises of old and new business friendships are cemented ensuring we all get the gear we want from our favourite shops.  This has become a tradition now and it is one that not only proliferates the material want of the industry but also helps ensure the education of the newer and younger enthusiasts.  This years SHOT SHOW however has been marred by the political reaction of the US Government, more specifically the anti-gun lobbyists, with recent atrocities in the US allowing them to gain momentum in the media, as well as both sides of this coin throwing out inaccurate information and slander it's almost an election.  The down side is as of this morning the US President has released his plane for a proposed executive order to amend gun laws in the US which will affect both the industry and those who enjoy the products it spawns.  As it follows the press releases so far have stated the following;

1. Issue a Presidential Memorandum to require federal agencies to make relevant data available to the federal background check system.

2. Address unnecessary legal barriers, particularly relating to the Health Insurance Portability and Accountability Act, that may prevent states from making information available to the background check system.

3. Improve incentives for states to share information with the background check system.

4. Direct the Attorney General to review categories of individuals prohibited from having a gun to make sure dangerous people are not slipping through the cracks.
5. Propose rulemaking to give law enforcement the ability to run a full background check on an individual before returning a seized gun.
6. Publish a letter from ATF to federally licensed gun dealers providing guidance on how to run background checks for private sellers.
7. Launch a national safe and responsible gun ownership campaign.
8. Review safety standards for gun locks and gun safes (Consumer Product Safety Commission).
9. Issue a Presidential Memorandum to require federal law enforcement to trace guns recovered in criminal investigations.
10. Release a DOJ report analyzing information on lost and stolen guns and make it widely available to law enforcement.
11. Nominate an ATF director.
12. Provide law enforcement, first responders, and school officials with proper training for active shooter situations.
13. Maximize enforcement efforts to prevent gun violence and prosecute gun crime.
14. Issue a Presidential Memorandum directing the Centers for Disease Control to research the causes and prevention of gun violence.
15. Direct the Attorney General to issue a report on the availability and most effective use of new gun safety technologies and challenge the private sector to develop innovative technologies
16. Clarify that the Affordable Care Act does not prohibit doctors asking their patients about guns in their homes.
17. Release a letter to health care providers clarifying that no federal law prohibits them from reporting threats of violence to law enforcement authorities.
18. Provide incentives for schools to hire school resource officers.
19. Develop model emergency response plans for schools, houses of worship and institutions of higher education.
20. Release a letter to state health officials clarifying the scope of mental health services that Medicaid plans must cover.
21. Finalize regulations clarifying essential health benefits and parity requirements within ACA exchanges.
22. Commit to finalizing mental health parity regulations.
23. Launch a national dialogue led by Secretaries Sebelius and Duncan on mental health.

I thought 12 was interesting.  

OHH VIDEO

So I've finished and loaded our first video to youtube.  It's about 45 seconds long and just shows the kinds of gear we test to give you an idea of what we are up to.  The intent is to make more specific videos detailing the kit its self and help give a better idea of what we're talking about.  Give it a look and let us know what you think either here or on our Facebook page.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E8ehxkkA4X0

SERE, E&E, SURVIVAL KIT BASICS

SERE, E&E, AND SURVIVAL KIT – I’m not going to talk about the doctrine or training behind this because there are any number of organizations, web sites, blogs, or books that go into great detail on how and what to do in situations you can find yourself in. What I do want to do is offer a suggestion for temporary sustainment as far as what to carry that can fit in a pocket or pouch in your kit.

First you will need a form of shelter. You have two choices carry one or make one. A simple small tarp or ground sheet made of a light weight nylon that is water proof and has grommet rings in the corners will work and can be folded into a 5 to 7 inch square. Not the easiest thing to pack but it will fit in a small pack and takes up little or no space.  If you want to make one you will need rope and a knife. Theses can take up less space in your kit, especially if you use a large spool of dental floss mixed with about 10 to 14 feet of para cord. The para cord is nice because if you know how to make proper knots it can be made into a bracelet and placed on your wrist. I like this option and have used it in the past as well; 100 feet of dental floss will fit nicely into a smaller kit and is strong enough to lash small logs together in order to make a temporary shelter. Additionally a survival blanket can provide shelter and warmth while taking up the smallest amount of space in a kit. I like these because they reflect heat including the heat from your body, they are waterproof and if you get the right one, highly reflective on one side and subdued on the other side.


Next you’ll want a fire. This can provide warmth and be used to signal for help depending on where you are and if you’re ready to be found.  There are three options for fire starter and I like to carry a minimum of two (one is none two is one). The obvious first choice is a good set of waterproof strike anywhere matches in a survival case. It’s easy to carry and fits into any kit nicely. Second I like to have a backup lighter. I carry about three at any given time, one in a pocket, one in my pack and one in my jacket. I use bic's, but a well-maintained butane or weatherproof zippo works equally as well so long as you remember to refill them. I usually will have a number of elastics wrapped around them as a it takes up no room and can be used for a 101 different little things. I choose the bic's because last when stored and even when they get wet you can dry them out and continue to use them. The last option is a magnesium strip and flint fire starter and some dryer lint or steel wool. Again these fit in just about anywhere in a small kit and can be used easily if you have a good knife. The difference between dryer lint and steel wool is simple the dryer wool gets wet and won’t light, the steel wool in most cases will still light but takes up more room then the dryer lint. A fire also allows you to boil water and make sure it can be purified for sustainment which will keep you alive long enough for people to find you. Now you can also add things like wetfire, flint strikers, and any number of small fire starter kits.

The third requirement is the ability to signal. Signals can be made out of a hundred different things most of them already in your kit. But since we’re all about the gear, a small mirror, which can be picked up at any camping or gear shop, is a must. Chem lights are a great little thing as well. Having one Green and one Inferred (IR) works well. I say green because any one searching with some kind of night vision is only going to see green anyway and an IR can be picked up from great distances away at anytime of day. Now keeping with the IR theme, there are any number of battery operated strobes that can be purchased. I like the ACR MS 2000 IR Strobe (coming review) personally as well as the VIP IR Strobe. Now both of these can be mounted to your gear or placed in a small kit. The last one I want to mention are signal lasers or laser flares. These can be seen from a retarded distance away and can be hidden from the less technically advanced. These will be picked up by those using IR and Thermal search capabilities making you unmistakably identifiable, that said they have a finite life span being dependant on the batteries in them.

The last major thing you want to have is a navigation set. I’m a big fan of the topo maps and compasses as they never lose power and can be fitted into pockets. Additionally a GPS or digital compass works well to find your current location and keep you on track until your batteries die.

Other things you are going to want are, snare or fishing line, cable saw, a good whistle, elastics and safety/baby pins.

Now you can build your own specific SERE, E&E and Survival Kit based on your personal requirements and environment. Remember your kit will change with the time of year and environment as well certain things like batteries, chem lights and electronics need to be tested and replenished periodically to ensure you have them when you need them. Additionally a container, preferably a waterproof one, be it a small Ziploc, Dry Bag or hard case is needed.

If you’re not sure what to put in a basic kit there are lots of suppliers out there that will sell you a premade kit. If you’re going to do this make sure it’s a trusted retailer who knows the product and isn’t just selling surplus kits that have expired. I personally like SURVIVAL KIT USA and HARD CASE SURVIVAL both of which have sites.

Following the basic SERE, E&E and SURVIVAL KIT theme for today id like to make a recommendtion. Now, during 2012 I had the pleasure and chance to work with Richard "Dicky" Pyshorn, a former Warrant Officer from the UK Military Survival School and member of the Royal Air Force Regiment. His focus on training and preparation was without comparison and no matter your skill set he has something to teach you. Now if your in his neck of the woods and require or want survival training you can find him and others instructors at SURVIVAL WISDOM. Dicky is a true professional and has a wealth of knowledge that should be taken advantage of if you have the chance I can't think of anyone else I would recommend for the job.

And as with anything, GET THE TRAINING, PRACTICE THE SKILLS, EDUCATE THOSE AROUND YOU.

WE ALL WANT TO BE A WHORE

WHAT TO LOOK FOR - The way I look at it, there are three kinds of people buying gear/kit aside from professional operators. 


1. Those who must have the absolute best, high speed low drag most up to date matching everything and will pay for it without a second thought. These people will make fun of you and stare down their noses if you're not wearing comparable gear and usually have access to more money then most. GEAR SNOB

2. Those who will mix and match to fit their needs and want the quality but aren't overly concerned with brand names or how much it cost them. These people will offer suggestions and compare information looking to help each other out and improve each other. GEAR WHORE

3. Those who just want shiny kit and have absolutely no idea what they are buying. It's on the shelf they want and need it to show off and if it's a high end brand name it just makes them look that much better. These people poor mass amounts of money into the industry and after a while start to look at quality over readily available. GEAR WANNA'BE

Now, I know someone, somewhere just took offence. These are just general concepts from what I've seen in my time. Usually someone will start out in category and shift to another. I bring this up because there are multiple levels of quality and manufacturing out there. You can go from UNDER THE GUN (UTG) to CRYE PRECISION and only know the difference in price and where it came from but you can't tell someone jack about what makes it a good or bad product leaving you with "you get what you pay for". What we all need to do is educate ourselves on what the difference is. I'll start with basic things to look for starting with apparel. I'll use TRIPLE AUGHT DESIGNS (TAD) and MORT as examples. TAD sells a $400.00 dollar shell jacket and MORT sells a $75.00 similar shell jacket. The TAD uses revers zippers, double stitched and tapped seams and uses an extremely high grade of materials to ensure longevity of the product. TAD also puts a good chunk of research and development into ensuring things like ergonomic fit on the areas that will see constant flex and wear. MORT however uses standard fits and materials and you can feel the difference when you hold them. MORT uses a stitch similar to that seen on a t-shirt or sweater and the fit from one jacket despite being the same size is inconsistent. Additionally one of the things to look at is the velcro panels on the shoulders. TAD glues down and rounds out the corners, this is done to keep from snagging and eventually tearing the velcro or worse the jacket. MORT uses square velcro panels and only stitches them down leaving the corners up to catch on other surfaces like door frames, walls or trees. Take a look at the spacing in the stitches as well. On a TAD you'll see a consistent pattern with limited if any difference in the visible stitch spacing. When you look at the similar MORT jacket you can actually see the spacing in the stitching change along the seams and the finished end aren't backed over multiple times to ensure the seams are finished properly. Something else you'll notice is at the joints in places like the shoulder. The TAD has a clean smooth transition from one piece of material to the next which helps with the jackets ability to allow water to run off or shed instead of building up on the seam. MORT, not so much the joints/seams are sharp even jagged looking and in some cases bunched up. This means that when you wear the jacket in heavy rain like we get on the EAST COST, it takes less time for the water to buildup and creep into the jacket making you wet and miserable a lot sooner. Something else when comparing the materials take a look at the percentages used to make it on the manufacturers "TAG".

Now if we look at things like armour and plate carriers, chest rigs pouches and belts. The first thing to look at and the easiest if the strapping used to make up the PALS or MOLLE panels. Look for straight lines and even spacing. Using BLUE FORCE GEAR (BFG) LIGHTWEIGHT MODULAR ARMOUR CARRIER (LMAC) a $260.00 carrier and the CONDOR MODULAR OPERATOR PLATE CARRIER (MOPC) at $100.00 to compare. The strapping on the BFG LMAC is evenly spaced and shows planned consistent stitching and if you hold a strait edge or a ruler up to it 99% of the time it will line up. Looking at the CONDOR MOPC panels you'll often notice that either both or one side the strapping will have uneven loops. Additionally the stitching isn't as consistent. The second thing you'll see is the taped edges. The BFG LMAC doesn't have any and the CONDOR MOPC has them all over. The reason BFG did this is to reduce the amount of environmental wear and damage at the seams while providing a strong clean finish. CONDOR MOPC uses taped and double stitched edges which actually wears out faster, and if you really look at it has all kinds of inconsistencies in the stitching with periodic bunching of the materials or even a misshaped or uneven finish. The quality of the FASTEX buckles used on the carrier is something to consider. BFG LMAC uses polymer as opposed to a cheaper plastics and CONDOR MOPC uses a thick plastic. The fit of the plate pocket its self is something to consider as well. BFG LMAC has the ability to adjust and securely hold the plate ensuring its placement as long as you have properly adjusted the it to fit. CONDOR MOPC has a slightly larger pocket where the plate fits rather sloppily in the pocket and makes it hard to ensure the plate stays where you need it to. The materials used in the manufacturing can be a big tell tail as well. The BFG LAMC uses a 500D CORDURA which has been battle proven by military and law enforcement personnel were the CONDOR MOPC uses a 1000D CORDURA which is equally as nice but increases the weight of the carrier while attempting to improve the longevity of the product despite the quality of stitching. The only thing the CONDOR MOPC can offer over the BFG LMAC is the real-estate that comes with a full cumber bun which you're going to need to use to make up for the loss of space due to improperly spaced loops on the front and back. One thing you'll notice as well, are the shoulder straps. The BFG LAMC has evenly set and when adjusted leaves equal tail amounts. The CONDOR MOPC, not so much, you'll notice when you put it on one side usually sits uneven and when adjusted one side will have a longer tail left hanging. Both carriers allow you to use just about any pouches and configuration you can come up with and will work.

When looking at pouches you want to look for similar things as I've already mentioned. The quality of the stitching and materials as well as the fit to how you physically operate.

A side from all of the above checks and considerations try the stuff out in the store and be sure before you leave. A good gear shop will have demo rigs setup so you can try some of their products. In addition "become a student of the game" and do your research to ensure you are getting what you want and need. Because I'll be the first to tell you, you'll replace it if it doesn't work just right or feel good. And when buying gear you want to buy it once and have it last until you change the way you train and work or you financially get to where you can upgrade.

And as always,focus on the skills and training as you get better then upgrade the gear.

IFAK MUST HAVES

BASIC INDIVIDUAL FIRST AID KIT (IFAK) - I cannot stress enough, "IF YOU ARE NOT TRAINED ON A PIECE OF MEDICAL EQUIPMENT DO NOT ATTEMPT TO USE IT WITHOUT INSTRUCTION OR PROPER SUPERVISION."  As someone trained in COMBAT FIRST AID (CFA) and TACTICAL COMBAT CASUALTY CARE (TCCC), I have a slightly higher then normal level of training then your average person.  As such I've 1. Come to be trained on certain products and 2. Come to prefer certain products over time.  My first pick is the OLAES Mudular Bandages be it 4 inch, 6 inch, or the blast bandage.  The 4 inch and 6 inch compression bandages have thin velcro strips about every foot or so to keep the bandage from unrolling and dropping it and then getting dirt in the wound.  Additionally you can remove the packing from the pocket which allows you to wet it for things like burn dressing or use as packing if you have run out of gauze.  Additionally there is a small plastic cup which kind of helps apply direct pressure to the wound, but it can also be removed and placed over a wounded eye (again proper training). The Combat Application Tourniquet (CAT) is one of the most effective field Tourniquets available on the market at this time.  Additionally its compact easy to use with one or two hands if you need to apply it to yourself.  Now it has a locking tension bar with a white velcro securing strap.  The white strap has a location to write down the time you applied the CAT.  That said by the time the guy/you get to the medics they aren't going to be able to read it so just write on a forehead or hand (again proper training).  Shears, I like the ones CTOMS sells but a set of MOJO shears work good to.  So long as you can cut the clothing off and cut through thick straps with relative ease it should be good.  QUICK CLOT COMBAT GAUZE,  I love this stuff, I loved it as a powder I love it more as a gauze for packing wounds.  What really gets me is the zig zag strip of x-ray visible thread in it (military/LEO version).  I chalk it up to the magic goodness of the medical fairy dust they put in it so don't ask me how it works cause all I know is it just works.  Now additional things you'll want are a casualty card for recording detailed information gloves to prevent contamination or infection.  Previously I left out the Chest Seal,  I'm a fan of the HALO Chest Seal as the cover a large surface are and come two to a package.  Additionally HALO Chest Seals will stick to just about anything whether it's dry or wet.

Now I'm not going to talk about Needles or NPA's as that gets into "specialty training" and I don't want to encourage people to try this stuff without proper education and standards of testing from a qualified instructor.  Additionally all of these products are meant to be "used on you", either "by yourself or someone trained" to patch you up and "move you to a medical facility".

I can't stress enough, specially with something like tourniquets, NPA's, and needles, If you don't know what you are doing you are going to kill or maim someone.  And that someone is likely going to be someone you care about.

If you don't have the training and want it or need to have your current training updated either notify your employer (if that is an option) or contact a professional medical education center like CTOMS, DARK ANGEL MEDICAL, St JOHNS AMBULANCE or the RED CROSS/CRESCENT.  Whatever you don't use this stuff thinking you can just read the instructions like an M72 and walk way afterwards.

YOU GOT SOME GATOR

GATOR CAM PAINT HOW TO - just had someone ask about the custom paint on the Flat Top Mossberg Tactical 22Lr. We've always known it as GATOR and it's very simple to achieve. You will need the following: 

1. The object you want to paint; 2. 3 to 4 spray cans of paint (I use KRYLON FUSION as it holds up better than most of its competition and after 7 days offers a better chip resistant finish);
3. An old mesh laundry bag (likely to find at a surplus shop or CANX/PX); and 
4. Make sure you have a dedicated place with good ventilation cause the fumes are wicked.

I start with a base coat of my primary colour (TAN). I do two coats and let it dry between each coat.

I cut the mesh laundry bag down both sides so it can be laid flat over the surface of what ever I'm painting. If the mesh isn't touching a dry surface you won't get the effect you're looking for.

With all my parts (disassembled) laid out, the base coats dry, and the mesh covering the parts I start with a second colour (BROWN) and do large strips, then I use my third colour (GREEN) and do the same thing ensuring I leave areas of the base coat visible.

Once the pint is dry I remove the mesh and using the colour from the base coat (TAN) I hold it about 2 to 3 feet away and fleck the parts lightly which down plays the darker colours and almost seems to blend or fade the colours together.

I don't like to use black personally as it's not a colour found in most natural environments and any shadows cast on the surface of the GATOR CAM will do the job nicely.

Now this can be done with any assortment of colours and looks pretty slick. If you're going to use a colour like "PINK" you'll need to use a primer. I would also suggest that if you are intent on doing it that way, base coat with a white or light grey and use a colour like "PINK" as your final coat to make it pop. I did this on a RUGER 10/22 for a friends little girl and she loved it. I've also finished a shotgun for a buddy using white, yellow, black, and hunter orange.

It takes about an hour to do if you rush it, or you can do your base coat and leave it over night for better results.

TACTICALLY PINK

This ones for a friend down south. There has been an increase of women interested in practical shooting and of course our sisters who serve side by side with us. As a result of this and a drive by the shooting industry to increase the number of female shooters there has been an increase of stores and manufactures designing gear just for women. I'm not talking about simple industry things like pants and shirts either. Now the most visual has been the amount of PINK Gear flooding the shops and sites. Some of the bigger names are MAGPUL with a full pink line of furniture for her carbine, Remington and Mossberg who have put pink mossy oak on their rifles and shotguns. Or John and the guys at Original SOE Gear who have been using pink thread and materials to make some of the toughest girly gear on the market (not a joke). The one I'm interested in today is a Toronto Area Manufacture and retailer, Kim Page and her baby "PACKING IN PINK" (PIP) who based her business on the premiss “just because I shoot like a man doesn’t mean I have to look like one.” PIP has one of the largest assortments of pink shooter (and I mean shooter) gear and it's not the cheap crap we've seen popping up over the last couple years. PIP has recently started a contract with BLADE-TECH to produce Holsters and Mag Pouches, on top of providing the assortment of women's apparel and safety equipment for the ranges.  I truly applaud Kim and PIP for is their dedication to education and safety as well as continuing the up swing in female shooters. I recently purchased some of the PIP gear for my wife and was taken back by the high quality I saw and the thought put into the pink. So with all this said, I give it about a year before we start seeing completely pink designer rigs and pouches on the ranges to go with the growing number of hello kitty rifles (again not joking).  And you know what, I look forward to it, I would like to see more women educating each other and at the range shooting and I don't care what colour they wear. Wouldn't you?

YOU HAVE A RED SPOT

KIT UP KEEP AND STORAGE - Something most people forget about or you don't normally see on blogs.  If you maintain your kit/gear when regularly it will out last your expectations and continue to perform the way you need it to.  Sometimes it's just a coat of paint to preserve the look and sometimes it's actually scrubbing the dirt and mud off with soap and water, other times it's spraying it down and resealing the seams.  Finding a local supplier of things like velcro, buckles, zippers, shock cord,and cord pinches.  The little things that break and ensure you have a ready supply at home for these time and keep a travel baggie of the most common things.

For Storage, it's the small things that help extend kit life.  I recommend a KIT MIDGET for everyone running a vest and/or chest rig system.  This is a throwback to the days of swords and shields.  A KIT MIDGET or gear rack is used to hang you stuff while in storage and allow it to dry out between use and cleaning as well.  The simplest design is an upright cross/little t that uses a single 8 foot 2x4 and some 3 inch screws.  Cut three feet off the 2x4 to use as your upright portion.  Of the 5 feet left, cut it into 1 foot sections.  Center a 1 foot section six to eight inches from the end of the 3 foot upright, this will allow you to hang your vest/rig system and place a helmet on top.  The remaining 4, 1 foot sections will be used to create the legs to make it stand upright, screw them into the bottom in a pin wheel effect allowing for 4 equal legs to stabilize the stand.  Once your done hang your gear on it.  Now to ensure your gears longevity if you have plates (depending on your local laws) and depending how often you use them, remove them.  You do this for a few reasons.  The weight of your plates in your gear is negligible but over time while in storage it will add up.  Additionally there is no guaranty that you won't knock stuff over while in your gear room/closet and dropping ballistic plates and helmets is a bad thing, so by removing them and placing them in a secure dry storage area you can limit or prevent damage to an expensive piece of life saving gear.  Third if you're not in a profession where you're down range, or you're shooting season is dependant on extended weather you'll need to properly store your gear.  Now I said depending on how often you use your vest/rig.  I did this because if you need to/or use your kit every week/day then removing and replacing the plates will effect the velcro (hook and loop) on the plate pocket.  So if you're using it a lot leave them in.

Pouches, I don't remove my pouches unless I'm replacing them.  I run a few different setups based on what I'm doing.  What I do, do is down load my pouches removing things with batteries, expiry dates, and anything that mite be under compression.  I do this to ensure I check the life of anything with a battery so when I need it, it works.  Expiry dates usually means medical equipment and the last thing you want is to have to use your IFAK (Individual First Aid Kit) and it's falling apart or rancid.  I remove things under compression so I can hang or shelve them so that things with springs or fill (sleeping bags and jackets) aren't left in a state wear they become ineffective.  And with things like sleeping bags and jackets they need to air out and be washed/dry cleaned so that you have them when you need them.  Now depending on the use of the pouch I treat it like a small backpack.  I will ensure buckles and zippers as per, but I will take some thin silicone and seal the seams on the inside and use a water repellent spray on the outside after I've cleaned the crap off and let my gear dry.

Go bags and storage.  I always have a Go Bag ready doesn't matter where I am.  What does change is the amount of kit and the sizes.  My Go Bag for at home and the one I have when I'm away serve different purposes and see different amounts of use.  The one at home is usually set up for going to the range and holds emergency kit as well in the even of a power outage or flooding in the area.  The one I have at work carries my backup kit if things go south and is based on what I think I'll need.  All of this said I treat my Go Bag like the rest of my kit and will down load it and check it periodically to ensure things like batteries and expiration dates on things like chem lights, med gear because it's left on a shelf and I don't access it every day or week.

Shelves and hangers are a must have.  Being able to arrange your gear according to type or season helps you when you need to pack it or put it away for extended amounts of time.  Now this can be done relatively cheaply buy picking up wooden selves at your local home depot, wal-mart, tiger, ect.  Additionally the nice thing is you can add hooks and panels to allow you to hang things.  You can also customize it to the area you have for storage.  On top of the selves, bins are nice for sorting out small bulk items.  It really is up to you how you do it, the options and layout are endless.

All of this said I don't wash my kit every week, I maintain it when I use it and check the perishables regularly and never store food stores in my kit when I don't need to.  I have an area set aside to allow me to have proper lighting, and access to any tools I mite need.  Things I don't do is put my boots, shoes, packs and rigs in the washing machine.  It's hard on your machine and gear a like and we've all spent enough to get us where we are now.  I use dish soap and a scrub brush if I'm washing my rig and I ensure I get all the soap off.    I know it sounds pretty intensive but it's easier then you think and takes no time at all, as well if your gear doesn't need it don't worry about it, you'll know when it needs to cleaned and you'll store it when it needs to be stored.