WE ALL WANT TO BE A WHORE

WHAT TO LOOK FOR - The way I look at it, there are three kinds of people buying gear/kit aside from professional operators. 


1. Those who must have the absolute best, high speed low drag most up to date matching everything and will pay for it without a second thought. These people will make fun of you and stare down their noses if you're not wearing comparable gear and usually have access to more money then most. GEAR SNOB

2. Those who will mix and match to fit their needs and want the quality but aren't overly concerned with brand names or how much it cost them. These people will offer suggestions and compare information looking to help each other out and improve each other. GEAR WHORE

3. Those who just want shiny kit and have absolutely no idea what they are buying. It's on the shelf they want and need it to show off and if it's a high end brand name it just makes them look that much better. These people poor mass amounts of money into the industry and after a while start to look at quality over readily available. GEAR WANNA'BE

Now, I know someone, somewhere just took offence. These are just general concepts from what I've seen in my time. Usually someone will start out in category and shift to another. I bring this up because there are multiple levels of quality and manufacturing out there. You can go from UNDER THE GUN (UTG) to CRYE PRECISION and only know the difference in price and where it came from but you can't tell someone jack about what makes it a good or bad product leaving you with "you get what you pay for". What we all need to do is educate ourselves on what the difference is. I'll start with basic things to look for starting with apparel. I'll use TRIPLE AUGHT DESIGNS (TAD) and MORT as examples. TAD sells a $400.00 dollar shell jacket and MORT sells a $75.00 similar shell jacket. The TAD uses revers zippers, double stitched and tapped seams and uses an extremely high grade of materials to ensure longevity of the product. TAD also puts a good chunk of research and development into ensuring things like ergonomic fit on the areas that will see constant flex and wear. MORT however uses standard fits and materials and you can feel the difference when you hold them. MORT uses a stitch similar to that seen on a t-shirt or sweater and the fit from one jacket despite being the same size is inconsistent. Additionally one of the things to look at is the velcro panels on the shoulders. TAD glues down and rounds out the corners, this is done to keep from snagging and eventually tearing the velcro or worse the jacket. MORT uses square velcro panels and only stitches them down leaving the corners up to catch on other surfaces like door frames, walls or trees. Take a look at the spacing in the stitches as well. On a TAD you'll see a consistent pattern with limited if any difference in the visible stitch spacing. When you look at the similar MORT jacket you can actually see the spacing in the stitching change along the seams and the finished end aren't backed over multiple times to ensure the seams are finished properly. Something else you'll notice is at the joints in places like the shoulder. The TAD has a clean smooth transition from one piece of material to the next which helps with the jackets ability to allow water to run off or shed instead of building up on the seam. MORT, not so much the joints/seams are sharp even jagged looking and in some cases bunched up. This means that when you wear the jacket in heavy rain like we get on the EAST COST, it takes less time for the water to buildup and creep into the jacket making you wet and miserable a lot sooner. Something else when comparing the materials take a look at the percentages used to make it on the manufacturers "TAG".

Now if we look at things like armour and plate carriers, chest rigs pouches and belts. The first thing to look at and the easiest if the strapping used to make up the PALS or MOLLE panels. Look for straight lines and even spacing. Using BLUE FORCE GEAR (BFG) LIGHTWEIGHT MODULAR ARMOUR CARRIER (LMAC) a $260.00 carrier and the CONDOR MODULAR OPERATOR PLATE CARRIER (MOPC) at $100.00 to compare. The strapping on the BFG LMAC is evenly spaced and shows planned consistent stitching and if you hold a strait edge or a ruler up to it 99% of the time it will line up. Looking at the CONDOR MOPC panels you'll often notice that either both or one side the strapping will have uneven loops. Additionally the stitching isn't as consistent. The second thing you'll see is the taped edges. The BFG LMAC doesn't have any and the CONDOR MOPC has them all over. The reason BFG did this is to reduce the amount of environmental wear and damage at the seams while providing a strong clean finish. CONDOR MOPC uses taped and double stitched edges which actually wears out faster, and if you really look at it has all kinds of inconsistencies in the stitching with periodic bunching of the materials or even a misshaped or uneven finish. The quality of the FASTEX buckles used on the carrier is something to consider. BFG LMAC uses polymer as opposed to a cheaper plastics and CONDOR MOPC uses a thick plastic. The fit of the plate pocket its self is something to consider as well. BFG LMAC has the ability to adjust and securely hold the plate ensuring its placement as long as you have properly adjusted the it to fit. CONDOR MOPC has a slightly larger pocket where the plate fits rather sloppily in the pocket and makes it hard to ensure the plate stays where you need it to. The materials used in the manufacturing can be a big tell tail as well. The BFG LAMC uses a 500D CORDURA which has been battle proven by military and law enforcement personnel were the CONDOR MOPC uses a 1000D CORDURA which is equally as nice but increases the weight of the carrier while attempting to improve the longevity of the product despite the quality of stitching. The only thing the CONDOR MOPC can offer over the BFG LMAC is the real-estate that comes with a full cumber bun which you're going to need to use to make up for the loss of space due to improperly spaced loops on the front and back. One thing you'll notice as well, are the shoulder straps. The BFG LAMC has evenly set and when adjusted leaves equal tail amounts. The CONDOR MOPC, not so much, you'll notice when you put it on one side usually sits uneven and when adjusted one side will have a longer tail left hanging. Both carriers allow you to use just about any pouches and configuration you can come up with and will work.

When looking at pouches you want to look for similar things as I've already mentioned. The quality of the stitching and materials as well as the fit to how you physically operate.

A side from all of the above checks and considerations try the stuff out in the store and be sure before you leave. A good gear shop will have demo rigs setup so you can try some of their products. In addition "become a student of the game" and do your research to ensure you are getting what you want and need. Because I'll be the first to tell you, you'll replace it if it doesn't work just right or feel good. And when buying gear you want to buy it once and have it last until you change the way you train and work or you financially get to where you can upgrade.

And as always,focus on the skills and training as you get better then upgrade the gear.

IFAK MUST HAVES

BASIC INDIVIDUAL FIRST AID KIT (IFAK) - I cannot stress enough, "IF YOU ARE NOT TRAINED ON A PIECE OF MEDICAL EQUIPMENT DO NOT ATTEMPT TO USE IT WITHOUT INSTRUCTION OR PROPER SUPERVISION."  As someone trained in COMBAT FIRST AID (CFA) and TACTICAL COMBAT CASUALTY CARE (TCCC), I have a slightly higher then normal level of training then your average person.  As such I've 1. Come to be trained on certain products and 2. Come to prefer certain products over time.  My first pick is the OLAES Mudular Bandages be it 4 inch, 6 inch, or the blast bandage.  The 4 inch and 6 inch compression bandages have thin velcro strips about every foot or so to keep the bandage from unrolling and dropping it and then getting dirt in the wound.  Additionally you can remove the packing from the pocket which allows you to wet it for things like burn dressing or use as packing if you have run out of gauze.  Additionally there is a small plastic cup which kind of helps apply direct pressure to the wound, but it can also be removed and placed over a wounded eye (again proper training). The Combat Application Tourniquet (CAT) is one of the most effective field Tourniquets available on the market at this time.  Additionally its compact easy to use with one or two hands if you need to apply it to yourself.  Now it has a locking tension bar with a white velcro securing strap.  The white strap has a location to write down the time you applied the CAT.  That said by the time the guy/you get to the medics they aren't going to be able to read it so just write on a forehead or hand (again proper training).  Shears, I like the ones CTOMS sells but a set of MOJO shears work good to.  So long as you can cut the clothing off and cut through thick straps with relative ease it should be good.  QUICK CLOT COMBAT GAUZE,  I love this stuff, I loved it as a powder I love it more as a gauze for packing wounds.  What really gets me is the zig zag strip of x-ray visible thread in it (military/LEO version).  I chalk it up to the magic goodness of the medical fairy dust they put in it so don't ask me how it works cause all I know is it just works.  Now additional things you'll want are a casualty card for recording detailed information gloves to prevent contamination or infection.  Previously I left out the Chest Seal,  I'm a fan of the HALO Chest Seal as the cover a large surface are and come two to a package.  Additionally HALO Chest Seals will stick to just about anything whether it's dry or wet.

Now I'm not going to talk about Needles or NPA's as that gets into "specialty training" and I don't want to encourage people to try this stuff without proper education and standards of testing from a qualified instructor.  Additionally all of these products are meant to be "used on you", either "by yourself or someone trained" to patch you up and "move you to a medical facility".

I can't stress enough, specially with something like tourniquets, NPA's, and needles, If you don't know what you are doing you are going to kill or maim someone.  And that someone is likely going to be someone you care about.

If you don't have the training and want it or need to have your current training updated either notify your employer (if that is an option) or contact a professional medical education center like CTOMS, DARK ANGEL MEDICAL, St JOHNS AMBULANCE or the RED CROSS/CRESCENT.  Whatever you don't use this stuff thinking you can just read the instructions like an M72 and walk way afterwards.

YOU GOT SOME GATOR

GATOR CAM PAINT HOW TO - just had someone ask about the custom paint on the Flat Top Mossberg Tactical 22Lr. We've always known it as GATOR and it's very simple to achieve. You will need the following: 

1. The object you want to paint; 2. 3 to 4 spray cans of paint (I use KRYLON FUSION as it holds up better than most of its competition and after 7 days offers a better chip resistant finish);
3. An old mesh laundry bag (likely to find at a surplus shop or CANX/PX); and 
4. Make sure you have a dedicated place with good ventilation cause the fumes are wicked.

I start with a base coat of my primary colour (TAN). I do two coats and let it dry between each coat.

I cut the mesh laundry bag down both sides so it can be laid flat over the surface of what ever I'm painting. If the mesh isn't touching a dry surface you won't get the effect you're looking for.

With all my parts (disassembled) laid out, the base coats dry, and the mesh covering the parts I start with a second colour (BROWN) and do large strips, then I use my third colour (GREEN) and do the same thing ensuring I leave areas of the base coat visible.

Once the pint is dry I remove the mesh and using the colour from the base coat (TAN) I hold it about 2 to 3 feet away and fleck the parts lightly which down plays the darker colours and almost seems to blend or fade the colours together.

I don't like to use black personally as it's not a colour found in most natural environments and any shadows cast on the surface of the GATOR CAM will do the job nicely.

Now this can be done with any assortment of colours and looks pretty slick. If you're going to use a colour like "PINK" you'll need to use a primer. I would also suggest that if you are intent on doing it that way, base coat with a white or light grey and use a colour like "PINK" as your final coat to make it pop. I did this on a RUGER 10/22 for a friends little girl and she loved it. I've also finished a shotgun for a buddy using white, yellow, black, and hunter orange.

It takes about an hour to do if you rush it, or you can do your base coat and leave it over night for better results.

TACTICALLY PINK

This ones for a friend down south. There has been an increase of women interested in practical shooting and of course our sisters who serve side by side with us. As a result of this and a drive by the shooting industry to increase the number of female shooters there has been an increase of stores and manufactures designing gear just for women. I'm not talking about simple industry things like pants and shirts either. Now the most visual has been the amount of PINK Gear flooding the shops and sites. Some of the bigger names are MAGPUL with a full pink line of furniture for her carbine, Remington and Mossberg who have put pink mossy oak on their rifles and shotguns. Or John and the guys at Original SOE Gear who have been using pink thread and materials to make some of the toughest girly gear on the market (not a joke). The one I'm interested in today is a Toronto Area Manufacture and retailer, Kim Page and her baby "PACKING IN PINK" (PIP) who based her business on the premiss “just because I shoot like a man doesn’t mean I have to look like one.” PIP has one of the largest assortments of pink shooter (and I mean shooter) gear and it's not the cheap crap we've seen popping up over the last couple years. PIP has recently started a contract with BLADE-TECH to produce Holsters and Mag Pouches, on top of providing the assortment of women's apparel and safety equipment for the ranges.  I truly applaud Kim and PIP for is their dedication to education and safety as well as continuing the up swing in female shooters. I recently purchased some of the PIP gear for my wife and was taken back by the high quality I saw and the thought put into the pink. So with all this said, I give it about a year before we start seeing completely pink designer rigs and pouches on the ranges to go with the growing number of hello kitty rifles (again not joking).  And you know what, I look forward to it, I would like to see more women educating each other and at the range shooting and I don't care what colour they wear. Wouldn't you?

YOU HAVE A RED SPOT

KIT UP KEEP AND STORAGE - Something most people forget about or you don't normally see on blogs.  If you maintain your kit/gear when regularly it will out last your expectations and continue to perform the way you need it to.  Sometimes it's just a coat of paint to preserve the look and sometimes it's actually scrubbing the dirt and mud off with soap and water, other times it's spraying it down and resealing the seams.  Finding a local supplier of things like velcro, buckles, zippers, shock cord,and cord pinches.  The little things that break and ensure you have a ready supply at home for these time and keep a travel baggie of the most common things.

For Storage, it's the small things that help extend kit life.  I recommend a KIT MIDGET for everyone running a vest and/or chest rig system.  This is a throwback to the days of swords and shields.  A KIT MIDGET or gear rack is used to hang you stuff while in storage and allow it to dry out between use and cleaning as well.  The simplest design is an upright cross/little t that uses a single 8 foot 2x4 and some 3 inch screws.  Cut three feet off the 2x4 to use as your upright portion.  Of the 5 feet left, cut it into 1 foot sections.  Center a 1 foot section six to eight inches from the end of the 3 foot upright, this will allow you to hang your vest/rig system and place a helmet on top.  The remaining 4, 1 foot sections will be used to create the legs to make it stand upright, screw them into the bottom in a pin wheel effect allowing for 4 equal legs to stabilize the stand.  Once your done hang your gear on it.  Now to ensure your gears longevity if you have plates (depending on your local laws) and depending how often you use them, remove them.  You do this for a few reasons.  The weight of your plates in your gear is negligible but over time while in storage it will add up.  Additionally there is no guaranty that you won't knock stuff over while in your gear room/closet and dropping ballistic plates and helmets is a bad thing, so by removing them and placing them in a secure dry storage area you can limit or prevent damage to an expensive piece of life saving gear.  Third if you're not in a profession where you're down range, or you're shooting season is dependant on extended weather you'll need to properly store your gear.  Now I said depending on how often you use your vest/rig.  I did this because if you need to/or use your kit every week/day then removing and replacing the plates will effect the velcro (hook and loop) on the plate pocket.  So if you're using it a lot leave them in.

Pouches, I don't remove my pouches unless I'm replacing them.  I run a few different setups based on what I'm doing.  What I do, do is down load my pouches removing things with batteries, expiry dates, and anything that mite be under compression.  I do this to ensure I check the life of anything with a battery so when I need it, it works.  Expiry dates usually means medical equipment and the last thing you want is to have to use your IFAK (Individual First Aid Kit) and it's falling apart or rancid.  I remove things under compression so I can hang or shelve them so that things with springs or fill (sleeping bags and jackets) aren't left in a state wear they become ineffective.  And with things like sleeping bags and jackets they need to air out and be washed/dry cleaned so that you have them when you need them.  Now depending on the use of the pouch I treat it like a small backpack.  I will ensure buckles and zippers as per, but I will take some thin silicone and seal the seams on the inside and use a water repellent spray on the outside after I've cleaned the crap off and let my gear dry.

Go bags and storage.  I always have a Go Bag ready doesn't matter where I am.  What does change is the amount of kit and the sizes.  My Go Bag for at home and the one I have when I'm away serve different purposes and see different amounts of use.  The one at home is usually set up for going to the range and holds emergency kit as well in the even of a power outage or flooding in the area.  The one I have at work carries my backup kit if things go south and is based on what I think I'll need.  All of this said I treat my Go Bag like the rest of my kit and will down load it and check it periodically to ensure things like batteries and expiration dates on things like chem lights, med gear because it's left on a shelf and I don't access it every day or week.

Shelves and hangers are a must have.  Being able to arrange your gear according to type or season helps you when you need to pack it or put it away for extended amounts of time.  Now this can be done relatively cheaply buy picking up wooden selves at your local home depot, wal-mart, tiger, ect.  Additionally the nice thing is you can add hooks and panels to allow you to hang things.  You can also customize it to the area you have for storage.  On top of the selves, bins are nice for sorting out small bulk items.  It really is up to you how you do it, the options and layout are endless.

All of this said I don't wash my kit every week, I maintain it when I use it and check the perishables regularly and never store food stores in my kit when I don't need to.  I have an area set aside to allow me to have proper lighting, and access to any tools I mite need.  Things I don't do is put my boots, shoes, packs and rigs in the washing machine.  It's hard on your machine and gear a like and we've all spent enough to get us where we are now.  I use dish soap and a scrub brush if I'm washing my rig and I ensure I get all the soap off.    I know it sounds pretty intensive but it's easier then you think and takes no time at all, as well if your gear doesn't need it don't worry about it, you'll know when it needs to cleaned and you'll store it when it needs to be stored.